Hola & Happy Easter!!!
After traveling to Palma de Mallorca & Lisbon for the first half of Semana Santa, I stayed at home for the rest of the break to catch the processions held in Sevilla. Unfortunately the weather was not too kind; only a handful of pasos (floats) were able to parade the streets. I later learned that rain hasn't affected Semana Santa this badly for about 150 years!! So of course I visit on the unusual year...haha.
Here's my paso viewing group! On Saturday we went out to search for a paso...& were successful! We watched Jesus & Mary parade through the streets of Sevilla for an hour & were so proud of our success. We then decided to stay out & watch the other processions, which would have been 1 every hour from 4-9...but it started raining again :( & when I say rain, I really mean monsoon. We headed home, still happy that we were even able to see just one.
My first paso: Jesus carrying the cross. This was a Saturday paso; the happier pasos showed on Easter day. The pasos are held up by 30-50 men (costaleros), who stand underneath the super heavy float and shuffle their feet around to make the paso sway. The floats are so heavy that the costaleros switch out every so often...sometimes the float parades around for 14 hours, so they have to take shifts! The costaleros wear head protection & wrap their stomachs tightly for support (so their insides don't rupture...does NOT sound like a good time).
This is the Saturday paso of the Virgin Mary. In this paso she is sad & mourning for her son. The candles on this float made it absolutely stunning.
Sunday (AKA Easter day): My friends & I woke up at 6AM to catch the last pasos of Semana Santa...I forgot how early 6AM was until then!!! But let me just say that I am SO happy I experienced the Easter pasos, they were sooo beautiful. Pictured above are Nazarenos, men & women completely covered in order to reflect their pure unity with God. This was the first year where women were allowed to participate as a Nazareno. If this outfit reminds you of the KKK, that's because the KKK was inspired by these capirotes (pointed hats) & hidden identity. WEIRD.
After catching the last pasos of Semana Santa, we decided to get some desperately needed café con leche & pastries. We then headed to mass at the Cathedral, which started at 10AM...& finished 2.5 hours later! The first 40 minutes of mass was just music; someone played the organs beautifully and then the Archbishop said mass in Spanish. All the music was in Latin. I'd never felt more Catholic. :)
On Tuesday I went to my first bull fight! In Spanish it's called Corrida de Toros. 7 of us bought the 26 euro ticket (sitting in "sol alto," the cheap seats!) and soaked in all the culture. The older people watching the fight had their Sunday best on, & the crowd was NOT afraid to share their thoughts during the whole fight. They would boo or cheer or yell and it was so interesting to see. A group of older men (in their 70s) sat behind us & explained bits & pieces of the fight, which was very helpful.
Turns out, I actually LOVED the corrida! Here's how it works: There are 3 rounds.
- Round one—5 men waved their cape at the bull in order to tire it out. There are men on horses (picadores) that parade the ring, poking the bull if it gets too close to the men with capes.
- Round 2—3 men, banderilleros, place 2 banderillas (sharp barbed sticks) each into the bull. Again, this is in order to aggravate & tire the bull out.
- Round 3—the torero (called matador only after he has killed the bull) enters the ring alone with a small red cape & a sword. It his his job to kill the bull.
Describing what happens in an actual bullfight is just not sufficient or fair enough to depict my experience. Although there was a lot of blood, the whole fight was beautiful, I couldn't take my eyes off of the toreros. They move so beautifully & seem so daring & confident when facing the bull. The bullfight is suppose to depict how man can conquer animal; I'm so glad I didn't chicken out & bail on the fight! I do have to admit that I had to close my eyes or turn away when the bull was killed, but everything before that was great.
This week: IT'S FERIA!!! Which means fiesta, fiesta, fiesta. We don't have classes this week, so Katie & I are catching up on some homework & making a day-trip to Ronda & Cádiz this week. & I may or may not be going to Portugal next weekend...3rd time's a charm?! haha
HASTA LUEGO. xoxo B
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